This is a dictionary of terms used in knitting patterns, how to read patterns, how to do it on a loom.
Working Yarn: (YW) This is the yarn that you are working with, currently not on the loom, connected to your skein.
E-wrap: (K, EW, EWK) The most basic knit stitch, used most commonly. Wrap the peg and lift the existing loop over. This is the loosest knit stitch.
Purl: (P) This is used often, and is quite simple once you get the hang of it. It is basically the opposite of a knit stitch. Put the knitting tool through the loop on the peg from top to bottom, grab the working yarn with the tool, pull it up through the loop and remove that loop from the peg, and put the new loop you just formed onto the peg. Be careful not to pull too tight, keep the working yarn loose.
U-Wrap Knit (UW, U-wrap, UK) This is like doing a half stitch, but in reverse. You take the yarn and put it in front of the peg, and wrap around the back, but not all the way around. Take the existing stitch and knit over the half wrap you just did, while holding the working yarn so it stays in place. This is a tighter knit stitch than the e-wrap.
Plain Knit Stitch: (PK, K, Knit or Reverse Purl) This is done in some patterns when you want a tighter knit stitch. It’s similar to the purl. You put the knitting tool in from bottom to top, grab the working yarn, pull it through, remove the existing loop from the peg, and put the new loop over the peg.
Flat Knit Stitch: (FK, K, Flat Knit) This is the tightest knit stitch and can be difficult to work with on the next row if you’re a very tight knitter. I learned this the hard way. Take the working yarn, put it in front of the peg (loosely) and then knit the bottom stitch (existing stitch) over the working yarn. This creates a tight fabric and is good for socks.
Slip Stitch: (Sl) Slipping a stitch is usually done at the beginning of a row. Basically, you just skip the stitch, and go to the second peg.
Half Stitch: (HS) This is generally done at the end of a row, on the last peg. It leaves a nice border. Take the yarn behind the peg, wrap it around to the front, and knit the existing loop over that. Don’t wrap all the way around. If you find this is too tight or too loose, wrap from front to back.
Yarn Over: (YO) This is when you have a peg with no stitch on it, which happens with lace. Take the yarn and bring it in front of the peg, and then continue the rest of the row.
Knit Two Together (k2tog): This is done most commonly in making lace. It will generally say “yo, k2tog” which means move the first peg to the second peg, and then knit the two stitches as one on the second peg. If it says “k2tog, yo”, move the second loop to the first peg, and then knit the two stitches as one on the first peg.
E-wrap Cast On: This is the simplest cast on. Make a slipknot, put it on the first peg, and then e-wrap all of the pegs you need (either flat or in the round). Then start the pattern. It is simple, but can look sloppy. You need to have good tension. I rarely use it anymore.
Double E-wrap Cast On: This is a simple, tight, good looking cast on, but tension must be kept well or it can look sloppy. Wrap the peg twice, then bring the bottom loop over the top loop and repeat on the next pegs.
Crochet Cast On: This sounds difficult and requires a crochet hook, but once you’ve got it down, it’s really fast. Make a slipknot and put it on the crochet hook. For worsted weight yarn, I generally use a 4 or 5 size. Have the loom sitting so you’re working from the inside out. Take the crochet hook with the loop beside the first peg, bring the working yarn across the peg, and then pull it through the crochet hook to make another loop. This is like a chain with a crochet hook. Hold the new loop on the hook, and then repeat. For the last peg, take the loop and place it onto the peg. I can’t crochet worth a damn and find this easy. It just takes practice, and leaves a nice, braided edge.
Simple or Gather Bind Off: This is the most basic bind off and requires a needle. Cut the yarn at the length you need, thread it through the needle, and then starting at the peg the working yarn is at, bring the needle up through the loop on the peg, removing the loop from the peg. Tighten a bit. Do this to the remaining pegs. If you’re doing the gather (drawstring) bind off, keep pulling tight after every peg, so that it brings the yarn together as if a drawstring was made. This is good for hats and sometimes socks.
Knitted Bind Off: E-wrap peg 2, move the new stitch to peg 1, knit over, then move peg 1 to peg 2. Then e-wrap peg 3, move the new stitch to the just-moved stitch on peg 2, knit over, and move that loop to peg 3. Continue until there is one stitch left and then take a needle and pull through the last loop, like a gather bind off. Do this loosely.
Crochet Bind Off: This is my favourite bind off, but can take a while. You need a crochet hook, I generally go with a 4 or 5 for worsted weight but it’s up to you. Take the loop from peg 1, put it on the hook. Take the loop from peg 2, put it on the hook. Pull the second loop through the first. (Optional: Chain another stitch by pulling the working yarn through the existing loop, then move to the next peg) Then take the loop from peg 3, pull it through the existing loop, until you get to the last peg. Pull this through the loop on the hook, and then cut the yarn, pull the tail through the loop and weave in the ends. This leaves a nice, braided edge.